peakhigh.co.za

Well the SE Arete of the Sentinel is not everyone’s idea of a nice day out. Tony and I found that out after about 50 meters of climbing. And like the Allied forces in 1940 we did a bit of a “Dunkirk” so we could fight another day…

Our group was Tony van Tonder, Richard Behne, Gerald Camp and me. The climbing is hard by Drakensberg standards, Grade F3 A2. One easy pitch up, then the hard stuff started with Gerald leading. Time was ticking by, 4 people, 6 pitches to go…… Tony and I abbed off and went around the easy way to the top.

We arrived at the top around 2pm and used the radios to speak to Richard and Gerald. The news was not good! Gerald had cramps in his arms and hands and Richard was way psyched out. “Do you have a 100 meter rope you can lower to us” were his words! Well we found some other climbers, joined ropes, sent them 100m of rope and they were top roped up, just before dark.

Sentinel

Kranskop Panorama

It was like a return to a sacred place! ……….. Kranskop in the Free State near the little town of Memel. Climbers had lost access to this amazing rock venue some 12 years ago. Now climbers are allowed back on the crags as long as the correct permission is obtained. I had only been to Kranskop once before in the late 90′s and just loved the place. Now I was back with a bunch of Mountain Club mates to relive the old memories.

Gavin on Lunatic Fringe

We arrived on the Friday late afternoon and 4 of us dropped our kit at the base camp cottage and headed off for a fast ascent of some classic lines before and a little after dark. I managed to quickly do Brain Drain (15) and Bruce Sobey did Lunatic Fringe (13) – both 5 star routes.

Hannelie leading Longinquos

Saturday we were back up at the crags early with the whole group of some 12 people. I set off with Bruce and Allard Welter for the classic Retina, a 3-pitch route which ends up in a huge hole through the mountain. The other parties set out on different routes and also had a great time.

Bruce Tomalin bouldering

Kranskop is a lone mesa type mountain which rises out of the Free State plains. The crags are formed from Free State sandstone and are about 50m – 70m in height. The climbing is all traditional in style and consists of long evenly graded routes of great quality.

Gavin Raubenheimer

(Photos by Gavin Raubenheimer, Hannelie Morris and Bruce Tomalin)

For more info on guided rock climbing please visit our website on:http://www.peakhigh.co.za/rockclimb.php or contact Gavin on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

What a great weekend rock climbing at White Umfolozi.

The most magical setting! Beautiful sunshine in the middle of winter, a river with sun baked rock on either side, but enough shade to hide in when it gets too hot! Numerous excellent trad and sport routes. We climbed and climbed and brewed endless cups of tea and climbed some more…

Getting back to camp we could have a warm shower under the stars and then we spent the evenings around the fire! And slept on the deck – the most gorgeous view to wake up to!

How can you not get blown away with World Cup Fever….?

Just last week I was complaining to Gavin that I never wake up with that absolutely awesome “Man, I climbed hard yesterday” feeling. What a pleasure to wake up this morning with my forearms still sore and even as I am typing, my fingers feeling like they worked hard.

It took Gavin ages to convince me to go and have a look at Pietermaritzburg’s new climbing wall – High Altitude run by Josh Pickering. I thought Gavin, Cesar and I would spend half an hour and then I’ve done my duty and could say: “Yes, I’ve been… “.

More than 2 hours later and I still could not get enough! Josh has gone to a lot of trouble to create lots of really nice and interesting routes. They are colour coded to create more routes on the same rope. It’s not all about top roping either, there are routes to lead on, you could traverse along the bottom and Josh has plans for a bouldering wall as well.

What a great vibe, there were 8 climbers in total, all various levels, but encouraging one another, swapping belays as people got tired, shouting abuse and generally just having fun!

I’ll definitely be back next week!!

Hannelie Morris

If you’re keen – give Josh a call on: 084 2505 694 or email him on: mjmpickering@yahoo.com

Gavin and I spent the afternoon working Faye’s amazing route called Look Out Below, that things gonna go. It is a sport route at Umgeni Valley graded at 25.

This was our 4th day working the route. Both being trad climbers, working a route does not come naturally to either of us. I think we both see it as training to get stronger…

After both Gavin and I sent the route on our first proper try of the day, Gavin’s words were perfect: “I’m so happy that’s done, now we can go and do some real climbing again.”

We ended the day with a game of hack..

Hannelie Morris

The Dry Mouthed Guild met again on Sunday. We had 4 members ready to get dry in the mouth and dry in the mouth we got!

We had a great morning trying to push our limit leading on trad, some more successful than others… I barely got 5 m off the ground when my mouth was dry and shortly after I decided to rather bail than die! Leading on bad gear is just not an option. Tuxedo Junction is one beautiful route though and I would love to go back in a couple of months’ time…

Bruce tried to open a route for which we had much hope, but the last 3 meters was unprotectable – so he followed my example and bailed, rather than take the risk. We both decided that it is an important skill to know when to turn back!

Tea time: Gavin Raubenheimer and Tony van Tonder

So we lit the stove and had some tea instead!

Hannelie Morris

For more info on guided climbing in South Africa, please have a look on the Peak High Website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/rockclimb.php or contact Gavin on gavin@peakhigh.co.za

We had to go up Banneman’s Pass in the Giant’s Castle area of the Southern Drakensberg last weekend – James had left his sunglasses on top of the pass the weekend before. Tony was only willing to come along if we climbed something. After phoning Gavin Peckham it was determined that Banneman’s rib is a worthwhile climb.

We walked in on Saturday and slept the night in Sparerib cave. The morning dawned with the spectacular Drakensberg cloud carpet below us, creeping upwards. After 3 cups of tea we eventually decided to just go anyway, we can’t control the weather.

The start of the route was never found, but after we had both lead one pitch it seemed that we were on top of the third pitch, which meant that I got to lead the spectacular 5 meter hand-jam. I lay-backed up it! Anything not to jam and then did the very scary knife edge, which involved sitting down on  my bum and moving very slowly, one limb at a time, across the rib. I always find it amazing that on Berg a spectacular F2 hand-jam and a knife edge can leave one so happy to still be alive. What a spectacular pitch…

I was happy for Tony to lead the rest, since I had the best pitch! And by lunch time we were on top!

Hannelie Morris

For more info on guided climbing in the Drakensberg, visit our website on: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/

In late March Gavin had a short (very short) to the famous sea-cliffs in Pembroke on the Welsh south coast. He and Alan McEwan were scheduled to climb for 3 days on these fantastic cliffs.

The first day the weather was great! After Gavin lead two good routes, Alan took over the sharp-end. At about half way up “Highland Fling”, Alan took a short lead fall and injured his ankle. Gavin then lead though and Alan seconded. But it was the end of the trip! Alan went home to London and had some pins put in his leg and Gavin went off for a family holiday in England.

Gavin Raubenheimer

Contact Gavin on gavin@peakhigh.co.za

We ran a very informal beginners rock climbing meet at Swinburne in the Freestate (near Harrismith) for the Mountain Club recently.

ALL photos in this post by Hilton Moore

Friday afternoon Gavin and I sneaked out to climb a few routes before the beginners arrived. As always the boulders on the Farmyard were harder than we thought they were…

Saturday started with a safety talk and an introduction to belaying. The more experienced beginners were taught to lead and the first-timers had the opportunity to  toprope lots of routes. Throughout the weekend there were many volunteers to put ropes on routes, keen belayers and keen climbers. It is amazing how sharing fear brings people together!

We had a lovely braai in the evening and lots of laughter about the days experiences!

For more information on Certified Peak High Courses please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/courses2.php

Hannelie Morris