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Category: 2010 Ice Conditions

This will probably be the last report for this season.

The winter seems to be coming to an end as we have had no cold fronts to speak of for over 3 weeks. The ice that was there in the last few weeks, should still be climbable but is unlikely to have improved much. Most areas have quite likely started to melt and collapse. No snow has fallen either.

This coming long weekend 7-9 August is going to be about the last time this season that anything will be climbable.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

Bokong (Lesotho):

Conditions here were reasonable over the weekend of 17-18 July. No snow has fallen in the area and so there is ice, but now snow melt into the system. The routes in the # 1 Gully were all nicely formed, while all the other gullies were patchy. The main Lepoqua Falls were formed but we melting fast and huge pieces were coming off the entire time.

Sani Pass:

Remains okay and climbable.

Giant’s Castle:

It seems no one has been there this winter. It would probably be ok and I would think that Makaza, Tight Hands.. and the Main Loteni Coulior are all in fair condition.

Giant’s Castle did get light snow last week, which would have helped to make things fatter.

Southern Drakensberg:

The snow-fall of last week turned out to be very light in the southern Berg and so most gully routes will not be formed at all.

The pictures of Bokong area between 16 and 18 July:

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

The cold front has brought wide spread snow to the southern and even northern Drakensberg.

The reports I have are that it is below contour path level at Cathedral Peak and was in the valley bottoms in the Kamberg area this morning. I have no reports if the Bokong and Oxbow areas had snow. However these areas will become much colder anyway and improve conditions there. This should be very good for all ice areas and for snow gullies.

In the next week or so gully routes such as Mlambonjwa Coulior, Mashai Peak south gully, Mashai Pass and Eastern Gully on Giant’s Castle will come into condition.

It may also be the time to do a rare ascent of the Rutting Rhino Route in Mashai Pass.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

Bokong, Lesotho: Derek Brown reports that as of the 25th of June, the main falls were too thin to climb on and were close to falling down. This was mainly due to the river running very strongly and melting the ice. The other gully routes were nicely formed.

Sani Pass: I climbed there on the 29th of June and conditions were fairly nice. We climbed all the pitches of Cool Bananas and Banana Split.

French Wench has a steep, but well formed final pitch, although the lower sections are not formed well. The Wailing Wall was top-roped last weekend by Colin McCoy and party, but only extends about a 1/4 of the way down.

Giant’s Castle: I have no reports so far. Derek Brown and party will be there this week so watch this space. I would think that routes such as Makaza and the Main Loteni Coulior will be climbable.

The Rest of the Drakensberg: There has been very little snow so far, so all the snow gully routes will not be formed yet.

Other: With Sani Border post being open now from 6am to 6pm it is possible to do a day trip from Durban or Pietermaritzburg and climb most of what is there.

Please: Over the years, ice-climbers have sometimes driven their 4x4s to the top of the Sani ice climbs. Please let’s stop this, as there are tracks forming across the landscape and through some wet lands.


Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

French Wench

The image shows French Wench top pitch on Saturday the 19th. It was steep, but very nice climbing and should become fatter as the winter goes on. The lower pitch had not yet formed properly.

Reminder: The Sani border post stays open from 6am till 6pm.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

It is Friday afternoon and I am at Sani with Thomas Mann and Derek Brown.  The ice is in a reasonable condition and looking very good for this early in the season.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

Happy days! On Thursday there was a wide spread snow fall from South to North along the Drakensberg.  In most places it came down to just below contour-path level. It is reported as not being very thick. But it’s good news and now the winter can start !

Bokong Mafika Lisiu bouldering 2009

Sani Pass and Giants Castle should start to develop by this time next week. The  gully routes will still need more snow before being worth while.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

I have just visited Sani Pass and there is fair amount of water seepage from both Cool Bananas and French Wench.

Temperatures are still too high to actually form ice. There is a cold front moving up from the Cape as I write, and hopefully this will get the temperatures down.

Bokong 2009

The Mountain Club will be running a meet to Giant’s Castle from the 16-20th of June and then again 15-18 July at Bokong in Lesotho.

Gavin Raubenheimer

For more info on guided ice climbing, please visit our website: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/ice.php or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za