Drakensberg Mountaineering

Guided Drakensberg Mountaineering

PEAK HIGH offers guided ascents of most peaks in the Drakensberg. The climbs vary from easy scrambles to severe challenges. The peaks are all located a wilderness area and World Heritage Site. You do need to be fit and to have had some prior climbing experience. You must also be able to belay properly using double ropes and be competent at abseiling.

Giant's Castle ice climbing	Drakensberg Monk's Cowl summit
Monk's Cowl standard route	Pitch 1 on the The Monk

Scroll down to the end of this page to read more about Drakensberg climbing.

Contact PEAK HIGH for a free electronic information sheet on any of these listed peaks.

Click on Image for enlarged version
Sentinel Angus Leppan from car park Sentinal Angus Leppan topo close up	Sentinel Peak North Face Route. This peak is 3166m or 10 386ft in altitude. The North Face Route is 6 pitches long and carries a grade of 14 (UK 4a US 5.7). Guided ascents usually require meeting the clients the day before the climb, either in Durban or at the hotel at the base of the peak. The climb is then completed the next day. It can be climbed any time of the year.
Sentinel Standard route topo	Sentinel Peak Standard Route. This is a very easy climb, suitable for total beginners. It consists of one pitch followed by scrambling. It is often used as an introduction to Berg climbing.
Monk's Cowl Std route	The Monk's Cowl , Standard Route. Another Berg Classic on a major free standing peak (3234m 10611ft) in the central Drakensberg. The hardest pitch is grade 16 (approx. UK 4c or US 5.8). The peak is deep in the Wilderness area and takes six hours hiking to get to the campsite (day 1). The climb takes place the next day and then a third day is spent walking out. Best climbed during the months April till October.
Pyramid Std Route	The Pyramid Standard Route. (2926m 9600ft) This is a spectacular free standing peak in the Cathedral Peak area. The route is graded 14 (UK 4a US 5.6) and requires a five hour hike to the overnight hut. Can be climbed at any time of year.
Cathedral Peak Std Route	Cathedral Peak Standard Route (3004m 9856ft) . This is a very prominent and famous peak in the Northern Drakensberg. It is a scramble route sometimes requiring a rope. It is usually climbed in a day from the ranger station campsite or a cave nearby.
Bell The topo	The Bell Hooper's Route. This peak is situated next to Cathedral Peak and uses a cave as a base camp. The climb consists of two pitches of grade 13 (UK4a US 5.6).
Column, Escarpment Arete	The Column Escarpment Arete. (2929m 9610ft) This peak is located behind the Pyramid and requires the same effort to get to the base camp. The route is quiet serious and is graded 17 A1 (approx. UK 5a US 5.9). Best climbed between May and October.
Rhino S Route	Rhino Peak S Route. Rhino Peak (3051m 10011ft) is located in the southern Drakensberg. The route climbs a long arête on the peak's south face. The hardest pitch is grade 13 (approx. UK 4a US 5.6). To climb this peak a two hour approach is taken to get to the overnight bivvy at Pillar Cave. The climb and walk out then takes place the following day. Best climbed from April to October.
Rhino E Ridge 2	Rhino Peak Eastern Arête. A shorter route than the S Route and is suitable for climbers with limited experience. The same approach is needed. Can be climbed any time of the year.
Mponjwana Std Route	Mponjwana Peak Standard Route. (3085m 10 120ft) This is a massive rock peak in the northern area and is the longest climb that PEAK HIGH guides. It is of an easy to moderate grade route (grade 13) which takes a full day to complete. It is in a remote area and usually takes a four day round trip to complete. Best climbed from May to September.
Devil's Tooth 2	The Devil's Tooth. This is a serious route on a 150m needle of rock. Graded 17 A1 it is a Classic; only for the experienced.
Giant's Castle Schole's Route	Giant’s Castle, Schole’s Route This is a moderate, 7 pitch route which ascends a prominent gully on the main wall of Giant’s Castle. There is good climbing and the route is not exposed. It requires a 4 hour trek to get to the bases camp, then a full day of scrambling and climbing before returning to camp. Then another 4 hour trek out the 3rd day. Giant’s Castle is located in the central Drakensberg.
Giant's Castle Frontal Route	Giant’s Castle, Frontal Route This is an easy 2 pitch rock-climb located on a one of the Drakensberg’s bigger peaks. It requires trekking into a base camp, then doing the climb the next day and returning to camp. Fit parties will get back to camp in time to walk out the same day. It does require a good degree of walking fitness. Giant’s Castle is located in the central Drakensberg.

Pricing:

Drakensberg rock and ice climbs:

1 pax R1700

2 pax R1100

Prices include food, transport, permits and tent hire.

Guide Sentinel includes hotel accommodation and meals:

1 pax – R3600

2 pax – R3000

About “Berg” climbing.

Geography – The upper Berg was formed by the outpouring of molten lava, giving rise to what is today called Stormberg Basalt. Many climbs tend to have rock located between broad grass ledges. The rock is also formed into rounded overhangs, blocks and gullies, making the climbing often quite awkward. The rock quality can vary considerably from one climb to the next. Peak High only guides routes that are known to be of an acceptable quality.

Two “rules of thumb” when considering rock quality:
(i) The rock located at low altitudes is generally the worst while that near the summits is often quite acceptable.
(ii) The higher the technical grade, the greater the likelihood of good rock.

Protection – A selection of wired stoppers and small hexes are useful. Self-adjusting cams (friends etc.) are extremely useful and more adept than hexes at fitting into the unusual cracks of the basalt rock. A selection of a few knife-blade and channel pegs are usually also carried

Weather - The Drakensberg lies in the summer rainfall area of Southern Africa (October to March). This is the wetter time of year and some climbs are not in condition. Thunder storms are common in the afternoons preceded by hot humid conditions. The best months for climbing are April through to September. During this time stable weather is usually experienced with warm sunny days and cold nights. Note that snow can also occur during this time.

Rescue
What if you need to be rescued? Medical emergencies in the Drakensberg fall under the authority of the Provincial Emergency Medical Rescue Service (EMRS). However, due to the hazards and technical difficulties encountered in the Berg, rescues are carried out in conjunction with the Kwa-Zulu Natal Section of the Mountain Club of South Africa. This highly efficient and well-equipped rescue team is supported by helicopters from the South African Air Force’s 15 Squadron. The cost of the rescue is covered in the permit you buy when you enter the park. Clients never the less need to carry medical insurance for medical care when in hospital.

The guide, Gavin Raubenheimer is also a senior leader of the rescue team.