Eagle Rock
The sport climbing multi-pitch course will take you to the next level. Get confidence through skills.
2 days of learning skills to climb long bolted routes.
Venue: Swinburne and Eagle Rock, Harrismith, Freestate
The Super Sport Three is a road trip of South Africa’s finest and longest multi-pitch sport climbs. These are the best routes in the country and all on perfect rock in stunning settings. Peak High Mountaineering runs the tours usually for one or two clients at a time.
Howick Falls
West Sentinel Face
Swinburne. Long Bolt Hike
Swinburne
The tour starts with climbing Stage Fright at Howick Falls, (graded 20 or French 6a/6b). This is two pitches of steep dolerite rock with the mighty Howick Falls thundering just meters away down a 110m drop-off. Then its off to Swinburne in the Freestate, where we stay the night and the following day its time for Long Bolt to Freedom. Long Bolt is an eight-pitch climb on a semi-freestanding tower of sandstone and first climbed by Gavin Raubenheimer in 2004. Graded 17 or French 5c at its hardest move it has become a very well known route. There is summit book to sign at the top followed by three 50m abseils to the ground.
The day ends with a drive to Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge and some well earned refreshments. Day three we set off early for Sentinel Peak and the final, and highlight climb named MCM. This is seven pitches of mainly moderate slab climbing with a French 6b crux, which if the bolts are used can be climbed at French 5b. The route tops out at 3156m on one of the Drakensberg’s highest peaks.
About the tour: Can be completed by arriving in Pietermaritzburg the night before. Day 1 climb Howick Falls and travel to Swinburne and sleep the night. Day 2 climb Long Bolt and sleep the night at Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. Day 3 climb MCM and return to Pietermaritzburg or another destination.
Time of year: Best between April and December.
Accommodation: B&B in Pietermaritzburg. Swinburne, rustic accommodation, B&B or camping. Wistsieshoek is the only accommodation for MCM and we usually stay in the climbers/ hikers rooms.
Prices: negotiable depending on numbers of climbers and accommodation needs.
Here are a few of the recent trips that PEAK HIGH has undertaken:
One of my favourite courses! This happened as usual at Mount Everest Guest Farm near Harrismith, aka Eagle Rock, on 24th January 2024. It is always a pleasant environment of moderate sport routes and we did everything from how to change over and manage stances, to abseiling down multiple pitches to hauling a stuck climbing buddy. Mount Everest Guest Farm is the perfect venue for this course, as there are lots of easy to moderate bolted routes, up to 6 pitches in length. The accommodation is on the property and it is close the Gauteng (Johannesburg) area of South Africa.
On 8th January 2024, I did a four day trek on some steep paths and high drop off. This is a way of seeing some of the best of the Drakensberg. My client, who was only 23 years old was not really a hiker and did battle to do this route. His boots were also sub- standard and I ended up having to tape the soles on at times! This is normally a 4 day circular hike, but we decided to go to the summit of Cleft peak and
return the same way, and were home in 3 days.
It is not often I get to do easy day hikes, but this was the exception. The added bonus was instead of being in a tent sleeping on the ground, I got to stay in hotels. We started on 6th December 2023 and my client was happy to go wherever I suggested and first off was the 14km out and back hike up the Tugela Gorge. Day 2 we hiked from Sentinel Car Park to the Tugela Falls, return. The final day was an easy stroll a Swinburne mountain, near Harrismith.
Probably the best route in the Drakensberg and it never disappoints my clients! My UK client David was an experienced mountaineer out on a business trip. On 11th September, 2023, we
romped up the climb in good time. All 7 pitches and were down at the car by 3pm.
In August ’22 Gavin took two clients to Mt. Kenya…click on the link below
https://peakhigh.co.za/blog/mt-kenya-august-2022/
In January ’22 Gavin was guiding two British clients at Rooiberg, Cederberg mountains
Gavin guided at Cobham in the southern Drakensberg
Gavin Raubenheimer, ice guiding at Sani Pass in July ’22
Peak High guided an international corporate group on a 3 day, 2 night hike at Bushman’s Nek, Drakensberg
A 3 day trip guiding a British client on the amazing granite of Spitzkop
Simon Laker came to the Magaliesberg in May ’22. We did five multi-pitch routes in just 3 days!
Morgan Bay is where we ran an Abseil Suervisor course in February ’22
This course has become popular for aspirant rock guides and for recreational climbers alike. As an M.I.A. these courses are perhaps the nicest to hold. I as the instructor get to climb lots and at the same time impart lots of knowledge. Multi-pitch trad and Sport climbs are seen as an ultimate goal for many. To get the skills needed and enough confidence to get out on a big wall is what many battle with and where this course helps so much.
I run these courses in the Bushman’s Nek area of the Drakensberg. The Kwa-Zulu Natal Section Mountain Club of SA, booked with us and subsidised the course fee for 5 of their meet leaders. It is to raise the skill level of people who lead trips for the Club in the Drakensberg. Two course sessions have been run this year. We spent 5 days in each course doing anything from navigation to camp etiquette to river crossings.
These were previous clients from seven years before, who came back for 4 days of hiking in the beautiful central Drakensberg. Autumn weather had set in and there was a slight chill in the mornings. We enjoyed great views, two lovely campsites and summited Tseke Pass. Cleft Peak unfortunately remained un-climbed as a thunderstorm moved in towards midday.
Its always a pleasure to climb on good rock with good views and easy access. My client has been climbing with me for just over a year. At 71 years he was a late starter in climbing! We have been all over including Monteseel, Shongweni , White Umfolozi and Swinburne. This time it was to be the dolerite cliffs above the Indian Ocean. 4 days of perfect rock followed by relaxing evenings at the Morgan Bay hotel.
Bruce had been desperate to escape the ravages of corporate life in the big city. So this hike was his escape since the year before. Bad weather put that idea on hold in 2019, so I took him on this relatively easy route in 2020. But the bad weather returned just before we met and the Drakensberg was pouring water when we arrived at Injasuthi office. After packing bags and filling in the Mountain Rescue register we set off for Grindstone Cave. An easy 1.5 hour hike brought us to this lovely overnight stop complete with an old Zulu grindstone still lying nearby, hence the name of the cave.
Day 2 was a pleasant hike up and over a ridge and then down into the main Injasuthi River valley. A spectacular place, with high cliffs and thick indigenous forests and the highest mountain in South Africa, Mafadi, looming in the distance.
As we got into the main valley it became evident that the rains from a few days back had caused the river to run high. We moved on up the valley, often having to remove our boots, several times to cross the fast flowing waters. During that night as we cooked dinner in the Lower Injasuthi Cave the rain returned. It rained the entire night.
By morning, the river was running even higher than the day before. To get back to the road ahead involved some 7 river crossings, prompting me to eventually remove my boots and hike in “Crocs”, footwear normally reserved for campsite wear and middle of the night excursions to the bush. The crocs proved great for simply sloshing through the knee deep rivers and streams.
Injasuthi Centenery Hut
Injasuthi Grandstone Cave
This was a group of 12 corporate clients picked from around the world and 2 facilitators. The 12 all worked for one multi-national logistics company. Peak High’s job and me as a guide, was to get them safely from A to B then to C and finally back to the road-head. It all took place at Bushman’s Nek in the southern Drakensberg. I am rather sceptical of taking groups of non-hiking, office bound people and putting them into a hostile environment. But that’s what the facilitators wanted….including summiting the middle Devil’s Knuckle on day 2.
We set off heading for the Tarn Cave area and the intention was to camp in tents near the cave. The progress was painfully slow and most of the 12 were suffering from the excursion, altitude and wearing a backpack. The weather began to get dark and angry to our south by mid-afternoon. As we approached the final 2kms up a steep exposed ridge, lightning began hitting about 4kms away. No amount of encouragement helped in getting the group to move faster. Then heavy rain began to fall and then our pace dropped even more. By the time we got to the camping spot it was dark, wet and everyone was exhausted and I took the decision that everyone would stay in the cave that night, much to the facilitator’s disagreement. Rain fell the entire night and I turned the group around in the morning and we started back the way we had come. But by the time we got into the main valley again, the river was almost breaking its banks. Small side streams became raging torrents. We battled downstream for several hours before getting back to the vehicles. It was a reminder to me that mountain guiding, even in a place as gentle as the southern ‘Berg can be a taxing business.
River crossing, Bushman’s Nek
We were in covid lockdown level 3 and Peak High was allowed to train people but not guide. Sani Pass and Giant’s Castle were out of bounds for ice climbing, but the little known ice venue above the town of Rhodes was open for climbing. After doing a recce trip 2 weeks before and climbing some nice, yet easy routes, I met up with my 2 clients in the little town. We soon set off up the steep roads to get to our “base camp” at the rather comfortable Hawk’s Head cottage, perched high above the Eastern Cape highlands. We spent 2 days doing all the relevant skills. Anything from seconding ice climbs to placing ice screws to French technique on easy angled faces. The clients loved it and it’s all in easy access from vehicles.
Luca, a long standing client, was keen for us to climb the Matterhorn this year. But with covid restrictions, that dream had to be put on hold. So he opted for a few local climbing trips including the famous Angus-Leppan route on Sentinel peak. It turned into a great little trip where we hiked into base camp at a little rock overhang the day before. After a pleasant night we climbed the 7 pitches and were on the summit by midday.
Mafadi, which stands at 3451m above sea level, is the highest mountain in South Africa. It was also the objective of the SA Bone marrow donor organisation to have a donor stand on the summit and to take a genetic swab, to show how easy it is to help save lives.
They sent Clayton, a keen member of SA Bone Marrow and also a donor of the cause. It was set out to be a 3 day and 2 night hike and we reached the summit on schedule late on day two. Clayton, who is not a regular hiker was taking a lot of strain, yet he still took out the donor kit, took a mouth swab while I took the pictures. For a change the weather was bright and sunny (Mafadi, due to its height attracts lots of bad weather) and we had a great time standing about admiring the view. What lay before us was another days hike back to the car during which time I had to help my client at times as fatigue and blisters turned his trip into a marathon “vasbyt”.
Hogsback is always a pleasure to visit and so training the Hobbiton Adventure Centre staff was a job I was very happy to take on-board. The Abseil Supervisor Award is an MDT endorsed qualification for just such places as Hobbiton. It is 4 days of skills training such as re-leasable abseils, prusiking and 3:1 haul systems.
A great three days at this seldom visited venue in the north of Lesotho, which forms a section of the greater Drakensberg. We had three clients, Natasha, Callum and Chase to get their first taste of ice climbing. Accommodation was in the usual rustic rondavels, just 100m from where the course was held. Day 1 was spent doing the very basics of ice climbing training and safety. Day 2 we abseiled (rappelled) into the main gorge and there top roped a WI 4 route, using various skills and techniques. To end off, the instructor led out of the gorge via another, but much easier route. This same route was used the next day for Callum who has previous rock climbing leading experience, to do his first ice lead. All in all a successful three days.
Photo: Bokong, Menage a Trois
Asheen likes bagging summits and needed to get some altitude fitness before heading off for the French Alps. He had set his sights on Monte aux Sources at 3282m, which is a simple hike to a high a lonely summit on the border of South Africa and Lesotho. We set off from Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge by road and left the vehicle at Sentinel car park. Straight away we set a fast pace and in less than one hour we were climbing the famous chain-ladders to the summit plateau and enterd the Royal Natal National park land. Another hour of fast hiking and we were on the summit with views of Cathedral Peak some 60kms away and even further to Champagne Castle.
Photo: Monte aux Sources, near summit.
All rock climbers like a road trip and my British client was in the mood for some high quality rock and leisurely evenings around the braai (barbeque). It was Simon’s third guided trip to South Africa in as many years, as I have guided him in the Drakensberg and on Spitzkop in Namibia.
After collecting our hire car and lots of food (and beer) we set out for Rooiberg in the southern Cederberg and established our camping area below the beautiful red crags. The camp ground had only 3 other people staying over. Here we spent the next 2 days climbing multi-pitch trad climbs of up to 5 pitches in length and then headed south to Montagu for 2 nights and climbed the classic 8 pitch sport route, Another Day in Paradise. On the last day, while on the way to the airport we sneaked in the uber classic, Sands of Time at Paarl Rocks outside Cape Town. Four pitches of granite sport climbing.
Photo: Cederberg Nuwerus
Photo: Cederberg Rooiberg, Meanderthal
Photo: Montagu, another day in Paradice
By Dr Peter Robinson, Auckland, New Zealand
Gavin was our guide.
We were a group of 5 (4 of us are from New Zealand, and the 5th Is a South African) all around 50 with previous multi day hiking experience.
I grew up hiking in the Drakensberg but had never done the Bell Traverse so it was exciting to do this hike in my 50th year.
We decided to hire a group of porters so that we could travel with only a day pack and enjoy the scenery. Gavin organised the porters, all of whom have been trained by Peak High.
Apart from the luxury of not carrying a crippling, heavy pack, the porters were a great bunch of guys who also functioned as an unofficial security team which can be very valuable in South Africa.
Our hike was a 4 day/3 night round trip from Cathedral Peak Hotel. This hotel is a great place to start and finish the trip. It was founded by the Van der Riet family in 1939. My grandparents were friendly with the owners around that time and it has remained a well run establishment to this day. The accommodation is very good and the food is great. The hotel has a relaxed, safe, family feel. One can leave gear in the hotel lock room if one is returning after doing the hike. I would strongly recommend this, because apart from the convenience of leaving ones car and gear at the hotel, there is nothing like an ice cold beer or glass of bubbles, followed by a hot shower and hearty dinner after the hike.
We did the Bell Traverse in reverse which makes it more enjoyable (in my opinion).
We started walking late morning so elected to have a first night in Ribbon falls cave. This is a great way to break the steep climb up to the Drakensberg escarpment. The “shower” at this cave will certainly refresh you back to life!
Don’t forget the wet wipes for your other cave nights as water can be limited later.
Day 2 involved a fantastic, steep hike up the Camel and Windy Gap pass. The route is exposed in places but absolutely fine if one is careful and way easier if carrying a day pack.
The second night involves staying in a spectacular Cave which is reached by a hugely exposed traverse. Gavin kindly fixed a hand rail for security on this traverse. Thankfully there is another option for those that don’t like the traverse- a great little cave about 800m to the West. However, sleeping more than 2 in this cave would be a tight squeeze.
Day 3 involved a spectacular but easy hike to the summit of Cleft Peak (3277m). The views from the summit are amazing. We traversed the escarpment and eventually dropped down to Twins Cave. This is a large, well sheltered cave with beautiful views down over Kwa-Zulu Natal.
Our final day was the prize of the hike: magnificent views of the inner and outer horns, the Mitre, the Bell and Cathedral Peak. There were a few short sections of exposed scrambling and areas where the narrow path felt very exposed. However, with the light packs, the “warm up” on the previous 3 days and a bit of focus and concentration it was fine.
There is the option of also climbing Cathedral Peak (3004m) at this point. However, if doing the traverse over 4 days, one needs to get to the top of the escarpment on day one, to allow time to climb this peak on the final day. However, two of us had previously climbed this peak (as a day trip from Cathedral Peak Hotel) and we were out of time, so we enjoyed the views and cruised on down to the hotel.
I will never forget the feeling of peace and satisfaction of sipping a glass of champagne and looking up at the Bell Traverse and knowing that we had finally done it.
Overall, this was definitely one of the best hikes I have done- and I have hiked extensively around the world. Gavin is a fantastic guide and not only did he make the hike possible, but he also enhanced our trip with great stories and knowledgeable anecdotes along the way.
Gavin is a superior guide with extensive experience and skill. He is also an ambassador of his passion for the mountains, being a past president of the Kwa-Zulu Natal section of the mountain club, overseeing mountain search and rescue in the area, and involved in maintaining climbing standards and instruction.
In summary, the Bell Traverse is an exceptional hike and Gavin an exceptional guide for it! Challenges and rewards await each day.
However, (and a special note here for fellow foodies); be aware that back-country fare is very simple (light to carry and quick to prepare), it is after all, a high mountain hiking trip, not a gastronomy tour. We were very glad that we took a good stash of biltong, droewors and dried fruit with us to share …and at trail’s end, an extraordinary culinary reward awaited our return to the valley at the hotel!
The northern Drakensberg can be very wet during January, but this time around we hit it lucky. There was good weather the entire way except for some cloud and mist at the top of Mlambonja Pass, which caused some careful navigation. I was guiding four ladies from the Gauteng region. All of them experienced hikers but wanted to get to know the Drakensberg better. We hiked the route over 5 days and 4 nights and had great views of Cathedral Peak, Champagne Castle and Monte-aux-Sources.
By Riana Knouwds, Vereeniging, South Africa.
In 2016, I realised I really wanted to explore the Drakensberg wilderness area. I needed an experienced guide who knows the Drakensberg and who would take the challenge to take four of us,.. eager woman from Vereeniging… to experience the Drakensberg first hand. Researching on the internet… I came across “Love Wild Africa” reference of a hike with beautiful photos taken by the photographer Scott Ramsay, where Gavin took two of his friends on the Mini Transverse. I came across gavin@peakhigh.co.za and read about Gavin Raubenheimer. I took a chance and send a short email to ask if he would be interested in taking us on the Mini Transverse…Surprised…I actually didn’t think I get a yes for an answer. Gavin Raubenheimer is an awesome, passionate skilled guide with extensive knowledge and experience of climbing ,hiking, navigating rescuing and handling groups in difficult scenarios of the weather elements and situations in the wilderness area of the Drakensberg.
During our trip in January 2017 we experienced Gavin as an experienced and passionate guide knowing what to do and how to handle us…our pace … the hike…when the weather elements changed (heavy mist ,rain and lightening) to keep us save with good navigation skills and experience the different scenarios as exciting challenges. He also understands the culture and knows how to handle the Lesotho people (young shepherds) we
encountered on the route.
Experiencing the Ifidi cave ,Ledgers cave, Twin cave and camping in tents in the open, swimming, resting, the mystical views and challenges in the mist, the challenging Bell Transverse and Bugger gully, Orange peel gap,was an unforgettable” living life in the full ”…. life changing experience so much so that we asked Gavin to take six of us on the next experience in 2019 from Cathedral peak to Monks Cowl!! (Central Drakensberg)
At Peak High, we do some interesting and different jobs at times. This time around was guiding and being interviewed for a South Korean TV channel that features great hikes from around the world. I took them up the Rockeries Pass area of the northern Drakensberg for 3 days, where they filmed from land and from a drone. They used the time to eventually gather enough material for two 30-minute episodes, which will be screened in May 2017.
Simon Laker from the UK, has been a Peak High customer before when we guided him in the Drakensberg. This time he opted for the “Matterhorn of the desert”, Spitzkoppe in central Namibia. I drove the 2200kms from South Africa and met him there for 5 great days of desert friction climbing. We climbed the uber classic To Bolt or Not to Bolt, which is an 8 pitch grade 6a route on Pontok Spitz. We also did two other routes on Sugarloaf and perhaps the feature was climbing The Rhino’s Horn. This being a single pitch grade 6b route to the tiny summit of the horn followed by a breath taking abseil.
South Africa’s classic rock climbs are our speciality.
From the peaks of the Drakensberg, to the sun soaked rock of the Cederberg, to Cape Town’s Table Mountain to Spitzkop in Namibia, all the way to the alpine routes of Mt. Kenya.
Book now with Gavin Raubenheimer gavin@peakhigh.co.za or +27 0829905876
Near Cape Town
Cederberg– quite simply world class multi-pitch Trad.
Montagu – sport climbing mecca near Cape Town.
Paarl Rock – classic granite friction near Cape Town.
Table Mountain– the ultimate Trad multi-pitch urban trip.
Near Durban or Johannesburg
Swinburne– sun kissed sport routes.
Eagle Rock– multi-pitch and single pitch sport. All grades.
Magaliesberg– classic Trad near Johannesburg.
Sentinel Peak– Drakensberg mountain route.
Beacon Buttress– roped scramble
Near Durban
Howick Falls – spectacular sport climbing.
Umgeni Valley –single pitch sport in a game reserve.
Monteseel KZN classic Trad near Durban
Canyon of Dreams- White Umfolozi River gorge -Trad and sport in the heart of Zululand
Namibia
Spitzkop – Matterhorn of the desert. Classic desert friction in Namibia.
Are you climber looking for great rock routes?
If it’s sun-kissed rock and uncrowded routes, then that’s our speciality! From the peaks of the Drakensberg, to the sun soaked rock of the Cederberg, to Cape Town’s Table Mountain to Spitzkop in Namibia, all the way to the alpine routes of Mt. Kenya.
Book now with Gavin Raubenheimer gavin@peakhigh.co.za or +27 0829905876
Near Cape Town
Cederberg- quite simply world class multi-pitch Trad.
Montagu – sport climbing mecca near Cape Town.
Paarl Rock – classic granite friction near Cape Town.
Table Mountain- the ultimate Trad multi-pitch urban trip.
Near Durban or Johannesburg
Swinburne- sun kissed sport routes.
Eagle Rock- multi-pitch and single pitch sport. All grades.
Magaliesberg- classic Trad near Johannesburg.
Sentinel peak- Drakensberg mountain route.
Near Durban
Howick Falls – spectacular sport climbing.
Umgeni Valley –single pitch sport in a game reserve.
Monteseel KZN classic Trad near Durban
Canyon of Dreams- White Umfolozi River gorge -Trad and sport in the heart of Zululand
Namibia
Spitzkop – Matterhorn of the desert. Classic desert friction in Namibia.
Ruwenzori Mt Speke
Duration: 3 Days
This is the training you need to climb big mountains in South Africa or overseas such as Elbrus, Denali or even Mt. Everest. We have trained and coached several Everest summiteers and Seven Summit climbers using this course. Get the basics right!
Venue: Monteseel, near Durban or Eagle Rock, near Harrismith, and the final day climbing Sentinel Peak in the northern Drakensberg.
This course is specifically designed to give a new mountaineer the grounding and introduction to climbing. It covers rock climbing and abseiling and then goes on to train clients in techniques, which are often used on higher mountains outside of South Africa. These include jummaring, short-roping and simul-climbing. These last three techniques are often employed by guiding companies on such mountains as Mt. Blanc, Mt. Elbrus and Mt. Everest.
Day 1
Introduction to equipment and clothing
Rock climbing technique and style
Belaying and seconding of climb
Abseiling
Day 1 includes several actual rock climbs and abseils
Day 2
Simul climbing
Ascending a fixed rope with single and double jummars
Moving together: simul climbing and short-roping
Self-rescue: prusiking
Day 3
Accent of Sentinel Peak, northern Drakensberg; either by the North Face Route (also called the Angus-Leppan Route), or via the easier Standard Route. The North Face route consists of 7 pitches and is easy to moderate rock-climbing. The climbing is never very difficult, but clients must have a good head for heights.
Peak High Mountaineering is a Service Provider of MTS Certified Courses and Awards. We offer training and assessment in these courses and qualifications, which are used by recreational outdoors people right up to professional instructors. The skills used and trained in these courses can also be used for working towards National Qualification Framework Unit Standards for mountain guiding.
This is the first level of MTS courses. No assessment is done, but a Certificate of Attendance is issued by the MTS administrator
If you want to learn the basics and be safer in the mountains, then this is the course for you. We will show you all you need to know to get started and what equipment you will need. It takes place on paths in easy low mountain hiking areas. It does not cover mountain leadership or group supervision.
This is a mainly practical course in the basics of hiking. The skills learned on this course will help to make you into a confident hiker, equipped with the correct knowledge to walk safely in the hills of South Africa. It takes place in the foothills of the Drakensberg and in the Hilton area of the KZN Midlands. A total of 2 nights are spent sleeping either in caves or in tents in the Drakensberg. You need to be fairly fit and have some personal outdoor clothing and equipment. Items such as tents, mattresses, stoves and sleeping bags are provided on request.
Duration: 3 days
I want to book and find out more information on this Hiking Skills course
The Abseiling Skills course is a personal recreational course, which provides training for those who wish to learn to abseil safely. It is an ideal way to learn the basics. This is a practical course, teaching the skills required for personal abseiling in a safe and proper way. It does not however, cover the supervision of groups or technical rescue procedures.The course usually takes place at Monteseel cliffs near Pietermaritzburg. All the abseiling equipment such as ropes, harnesses and helmets are provided.
Duration: 2 days
I want to book and find out more information on this Abseiling Skills course
If you have never climbed before, this is the course to get to grips with the fundamentals of the sport. The Rock Climbing Skills Course is an introductory personal recreational training course, which provides training for those who wish to be introduced to the sport of rock climbing. The course covers both Traditional and Sport climbing skills. The two days are spent enjoying easy to moderate climbs in a safe and non threatening environment.
Duration: 2 days
And either of the following:
I want to book and find out more information on this Rock Climbing Skills course
Ice climbing is a sport of good balance, good weight to strength ratio and good technique. The roping skills are similar to rock-climbing and the protection points are usually on special ice-screws. The Ice Climbing Skills Course is a personal recreational training course, providing training for those who wish to learn to climb single and multi pitch water-ice routes. The Drakensberg is the perfect venue for this and this course takes place at Sani Pass or Bokong in Lesotho.
We offer 3 day ice or snow courses under the auspices of the Mountain Training Standards (MTS) and certificates of attendance are issued. This is the best way to learn the basic skills of winter climbing, whether you are just intending to climb locally or have ambitions in the greater mountain ranges of the world.
Drakensberg ice is a great introduction to the world of Alpine Climbing. These courses are especially useful before going to climb in the greater rangers. You will learn how to climb “French Style” front- point, ice-axe arrest, place ice protection, snow belays and assess objective dangers.
Duration: 3 days
I want to book and find out more information on this Ice Climbing Skills course
Planning on climbing in the greater rangers of the world? Then you need to know the skills of moving up, down and across steep snow. The Snow climbing Skills Course is a personal recreational training course which provides training for those who wish to learn to climb snow climbs and snow gullies on the African continent. It is also the perfect way to learn the skills needed to climb in the greater ranges of the world. If climbing Elbrus or Aconcagua or similar peaks, this is also the course for you. The course usually takes place at Garden Castle in the southern Drakenberg.
Duration: 3 days
I want to book and find out more information on this Snow Climbing Skills course.
Weather & Mountain Conditions
(If coming from the northern hemisphere: Remember in the southern hemisphere the seasons are reversed.)
Weather & Mountain Conditions, June till September
KwaZulu-Natal and the Drakensberg:
The weather in this region generally be very stable with long periods of sunny weather, warm day temperatures and cool to frosty nights. Dry conditions will prevail in the Drakensberg for most of the time. At high altitude Day time temperatures will rise up to a maximum of 20 C. Night and early mornings will be very frosty and at times could go down to – 15C.
Periodically cold fronts will move in from the west bringing snow to the high peaks. Snow and blizzard conditions usually last from 1 to 4 days in duration before clearing and warming up again. Cold fronts are preceded by a build up of high Cirrus clouds from the west and strong “Berg Winds” causing hot dry conditions. These occur about 24 hours before any really bad weather can be expected. This is followed by a gradual accumulation of thicker Altostratus clouds, rain and then snow. Snow can be wide spread causing traffic disruptions into the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal. These bigger storms often occur in early September.
Rest of southern Africa: Autumn in the Cape Town and Cederberg area is likely to be cold and often wet for up to 5 days at a time. Strong winds are common.
The Magaliesberg area near to Johannesburg and the sport climbing areas near Harrismith will all be in good condition with warm sunny days and frosty nights. High winds at Harrismith can be a problem for climbers at this time of year. These winds are the fore warning of a cold front. Mt Everest Resort usually has at least one light snow fall each year.
Rock Climbs in the Drakensberg
In winter most rock climbing routes will be in condition making for ideal climbing. Routes that face south will be dry and climbable. South facing rock can however be very cold when in the shade. Routes such as the “S” Route on Rhino Peak and Monk’s Cowl Standard Route do not receive any sun.
The following Classic climbs should all be in good condition by June:
* Sentinel Angus-Leppan. Climbable all year. Warm and sunny. Watch for ice in the approach gully.
* Pyramid Standard Route Climbable all year Warm and sunny
* The Column Escarpment Arete. Cold and shaded for much of the route.
* Devil’s Tooth. Climbable all year. Warm and sunny climbing.
* Monk’s Cowl Standard Route. Cold and shady but dry.
* Monk’s Cowl Barry’s Route. Cold and shady
* Giant’s Castle. Schole’s Route Cold when in the shade
* Injasuti Western Triplet NW Ridge. Climbable all year. Warm and sunny
* The Bell Hooper’s Route. May be wet or icy on the first proper pitch, can be very cold)
* The Bell. Wong’s Route, Warm and sunny
* Cathedral Peak SE Chimney, . Cold and shady
* Rhino Peak S Route. Watch for ice on the approuch scramble, cold and shady.
* Rhino Peak E Arete. (Climbable all year) First pitch cold and the rest sunny.
Ice and snow routes
As of the beginning of June there has been no major cold fronts and the mountains at present are dry and devoid of snow. Sani Pass needs to have a good snow fall before routes become climbable. It is best to wait for 10 to 14 days to allow the snow to melt and run into the drainage systems where it then refreezes forming good steep ice falls.
This waiting period is also true for snow gully routes. A good snow fall followed by warm sunny days and cold nights allows the snow to settle and harden. Most snow gullies remain frozen well into September, even when the rest of the landscape is hot and sunny already.
Conditions will most likely be as follows:
Giant’s Castle
All will be climbable in at least average conditions and thickness. Best climbed from mid June till mid August.
Main Loteni Couloir. Always climbable year after year.
Makaza. Always climbable.
The Main Event. Always climbable.
Eastern Gully Giant’s Castle, (snow route) Needs good snow fall about 10 days before. Once established it will stay climbable till mid August.
Sani Pass area.
Watch the weather and climb this area about 10 days after snow. Once the ice has been established it will stay like that till early September.
Black Mountain area. Needs good snow fall. The ice melts soon afterward.
Rhino Peak area.
Rutting Rhino Route. (water ice route). Needs a heavy snow fall. Will form and then melt again soon afterward.
Mashai Pass. A great snow climb/walk soon after good snow.
Mlambonja Couloir. Wait ten days after snow. Will stay in condition till mid September.
Mashai South Face Route. Same as Mlambonja Couloir.
F
(Also see article written by Gavin Raubenheimer Climbing ropes and how to use them)
Key words
Single-rope: a dynamic rope designed to be used as a single strand for lead climbing. Also called a Full-rope.
Double-rope: a dynamic rope designed to be uses in pairs tied to the lead climber. Also called a Half-rope
Here we discuss the pros and cons of using Single-ropes or Full-ropes versus Doubles-ropes or Half-ropes also known as Double-rope technique.
Double-ropes are primarily used in Trad, (traditional) climbing and sometimes in multi-pitch sport climbs when ropes my need to be joined to enable climbers to abseil (rapple) longer distances.
In Trad climbing there are really seven advantages to using Double-ropes.
There are 3 types of Dynamic climbing ropes and knowing how and when to use them is crucial to safety and to efficiency when at the crags. The word Dynamic refers to them having the ability to stretch and absorb the impact of a falling climber. Let us first of all understand the basic properties of each type of rope.
Single or Full-rope is the term used to indicate that it has the full required strength of a rock climbing/ mountaineering rope, and this is shown at the end of the rope buy a figure 1 in a circle at either end. These are typically the ropes sport climbers use, indoors and outdoors and in some instances in Trad climbing. They can also be used in mountaineering situations, such as moving together over easy terrain or glacier travel. In all these situations a lead climber would tie in to a single strand of the rope.
Double or Half-ropes have about 2/3 the required strength of a Single rope and carry a figure ½ in a circle at either end. These ropes are typically used in Trad climbs and sometimes on multi-pitch sport climbs, when long abseils are going to be encountered or anytime when there are 3 members in a party. The rule here is that the lead climber must always tie into two strands of Half-rope. The people seconding can safely use single strands to follow the climb. Half- ropes are also used when climbing ice ropes. Note that it is best to keep the impact force as low as possible on protection points (ie running belays), therefore when Trad climbing do not clip both Half-ropes into the same running belay. It is permissible to clip the two ropes through the same running belay on traverse pitches, when it is technically impossible for high impact forces to occur. The rule is however, that if one running belay point has both ropes placed in the same karabiner, then the ropes must be placed together in all protection on that pitch. Putting some running belays with both ropes and others alternatively can result in ropes burning against each other in a leader fall.
Twin-Ropes are indicated by two inter-locked circles on the ends of the rope. Twin ropes are two thin ropes which, when leading on, are used as if they were a Single rope. When used like this they have similar properties as a Single rope. They are usually used on long alpine routes and ice climbing and are very seldom used in South Africa.
There is actually a fourth type of rope, namely a Walking-rope. This is in fact not a separate rope designation, but simply a single strand of Twin-rope used only in low impact situations, such as scrambling and short-roping. These ropes carry the Twin-rope insignia but are used in non-serious situations when hiking and scrambling.
Many knots are used in mountaineering but these seven are perhaps the most common and most useful to know. All knots remove a percentage of strength from a rope and this can vary from 20% up to 50%. The cause of this loss of strength is due to the rope being bent round a sharp curve in the knot, thus causing some internal fibers to become over stretched on the outer curve, while some on the inner curve are not contributing to the strength at the point. Knots, therefore, that causes very tight curves such as a Bowline, take more strength away than a Figure 8 knot.
This is perhaps the most commonly used knot in rock climbing. It can be made up in two different ways. Either in what is called a re-threaded Figure 8 way, or as a Figure 8 on the bite. Both forms look the same when completed, but are made up differently.
The re-threaded way is used mainly for tying into a harness when leading or seconding a climb. It can also be used when tying onto certain anchors, such as trees or large rocks.
When made on the bite, it is used to clip into karabiners or similar linkages.
The Figure 8 is a very strong knot and produces less loss of strength in a rope compared to other knots such as a Bowline or Overhand knot. It is also not prone to coming undone while in use and does not need a stopper or safety knot placed after it. The drawback is it can get very tight after a fall has occurred or in wet and icy conditions.
This is a very similar looking knot to the Figure 8, but is used in different situations. Its main drawback is that it becomes too tight when weighted or fallen on. In a climber’s context, it is used mainly when tied on the bite when four or more rope strands are tied off together, such as when tying off a cordlette. The advantage here is that it is smaller and easier to tie than a Figure 8 when dealing with lots of rope. The many strands make it not as susceptible to becoming too tight.
Overhand knot with 4 strands
Overhand knot with 2 strands
This is a common knot for climbers to use when tying into a harness for lead climbing. Its main advantage is that after heavy loading, it remains easy to untie, thus it is a popular knot with sport-climbers who are working a route. The drawback is that it is susceptible to unraveling itself and so it must be tied off with a safety knot. The other danger is that Bowlines must never be loaded anywhere other than via the live rope end. i.e. it must not to be loaded on the loop of rope that forms. Loading the loop can easily cause the knot to flip over and fall apart. Several serious and fatal accidents have occurred due to this phenomenon.
Bowline knot with safety tie-off
This is a simple hitch, which is usually used on karabiners when building belays for climbers or when abseiling (rappelling). The main advantage is the easy adjustability.
This knot is used to join ropes and accessory cords together. It can also be safely used to join ropes of different diameters. It is extremely strong and not susceptible to coming undone. The disadvantages are it can become very tight, especially in wet or icy conditions. The large knot system can also get jammed in cracks when used to join ropes during abseils. For these two reasons, the Overhand in line or so-called European death knot is often used during abseiling.
This knot has become fairly common when joining ropes of same diameter on abseils. It is easy to take apart after loading and slides over edges well, causing fewer jammed ropes. It must, however, be dressed neatly and each individual strand be separately tightened. Note that joining ropes with an inline Figure 8 knot is very dangerous as the knot can roll out under low loads.
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