There are 3 types of Dynamic climbing ropes and knowing how and when to use them is crucial to safety and to efficiency when at the crags. The word Dynamic refers to them having the ability to stretch and absorb the impact of a falling climber. Let us first of all understand the basic properties of each type of rope.
Single or Full-rope is the term used to indicate that it has the full required strength of a rock climbing/ mountaineering rope, and this is shown at the end of the rope buy a figure 1 in a circle at either end. These are typically the ropes sport climbers use, indoors and outdoors and in some instances in Trad climbing. They can also be used in mountaineering situations, such as moving together over easy terrain or glacier travel. In all these situations a lead climber would tie in to a single strand of the rope.
Double or Half-ropes have about 2/3 the required strength of a Single rope and carry a figure ½ in a circle at either end. These ropes are typically used in Trad climbs and sometimes on multi-pitch sport climbs, when long abseils are going to be encountered or anytime when there are 3 members in a party. The rule here is that the lead climber must always tie into two strands of Half-rope. The people seconding can safely use single strands to follow the climb. Half- ropes are also used when climbing ice ropes. Note that it is best to keep the impact force as low as possible on protection points (ie running belays), therefore when Trad climbing do not clip both Half-ropes into the same running belay. It is permissible to clip the two ropes through the same running belay on traverse pitches, when it is technically impossible for high impact forces to occur. The rule is however, that if one running belay point has both ropes placed in the same karabiner, then the ropes must be placed together in all protection on that pitch. Putting some running belays with both ropes and others alternatively can result in ropes burning against each other in a leader fall.
Twin-Ropes are indicated by two inter-locked circles on the ends of the rope. Twin ropes are two thin ropes which, when leading on, are used as if they were a Single rope. When used like this they have similar properties as a Single rope. They are usually used on long alpine routes and ice climbing and are very seldom used in South Africa.
There is actually a fourth type of rope, namely a Walking-rope. This is in fact not a separate rope designation, but simply a single strand of Twin-rope used only in low impact situations, such as scrambling and short-roping. These ropes carry the Twin-rope insignia but are used in non-serious situations when hiking and scrambling.
KEY POINTS TO LOOK AT WHEN SELECTING A HARNESS:
* Snug fit.
* UIAA /CEN mark.
* Climbing harnesses sold in the European Union carry the number CE 0082 and/or EN 12277
* Easy to buckle.
* Easy to adjust.
Types of harnesses
In climbing most harnesses are called sit-harnesses. Sit-harnesses are then divided into ordinary/normal and alpine design.
1) Ordinary/normal design is the most common harness, consisting of a waist band and two leg-loops connected by “risers” to the belay-loop. The belay-loop then connects the risers to the waist band. The leg-loops can either be adjustable or non-adjustable. These harnesses are manufactured with a wide variety of different amounts of padding for comfort, extra loops on the back of the waist band for dragging ropes, gear loops for carrying quick-draws etc. Some, such as those made by Black Diamond, have loops on the waistband that accommodate clips for carrying ice-screws.
Ordinary harnesses are best used by people who intend to climb regularly. It is worth paying the extra money for the padding, ease of use and comfort of this style of harness. Most companies make sizes small, medium, large and extra large. If you intend to use it for summer rock climbing and high mountains, then get one that has adjustable leg loops.
Some manufactures have ordinary harnesses designed for the female form and in feminine colours. The main difference in design is the risers and belay loop are longer and the waist-band is smaller and split in two parallel bands.
2) In the alpine harness the leg-loops are sewn into the waistband and also from the belay loop and tie in loop. See the pictures. As the name indicates this style harness is better suited to alpine climbing. There are two reasons for this: (a) The belay/tie in loop on an alpine harness stands up above the waistband. This is so the wearer’s centre-of-gravity is lower when sitting in the harness which is useful when wearing a heavy rucksack when abseiling or hanging on the rope in a situation such as would happen after falling into a crevasse. (b) The alpine style harness also usually does not have much padding for comfort. This is for lightness and because in high mountains, the padding for comfort is provided by the thick, soft clothing of the wearer used in cold conditions. They also generally have a lot of room to adjust for different sized people and to accommodate extra clothing in high mountains.
On the other hand alpine harnesses are cheaper due to their simple design and lack of extra comforts. And because they are very adjustable and have a low centre-of-gravity, they are useful for beginner climbers, children and any abseil situation where beginners will be involved.
There is a third type of harness, namely a chest-harness. A chest-harness must not used on its own, but in conjunction with a sit-harness. By adding a chest-harness to a sit-harness it prevents the user from turning up-side-down or if they do turn over, it prevents the wearer from falling out the sit-harness. The chest-harness is put around the wearer’s shoulders and either clipped to the sit-harness belay loop with a screw-gate karabiner, or tied to the loop with a short sling. They work best when used in conjunction with an alpine harness. It is best to use the shoulder harness when people are overweight (no waist line).
All sit-harnesses have a buckle system on the waist band and sometimes on the leg loops also. The older style is a conventional buckle system that the waist band belt threads through two steel slots and then must be double-backed. There are also systems where the securing band is automatically double-backed. This system is generally safer, as the wearer cannot forget to do the final double-backing. Fitting a harness:
Any style of sit-harness should be adjusted so that the waist band sits snugly in the waist. Note around the waist, not the hips. The leg loops must also be fitted snugly. On the back of these harnesses are two thin adjustable straps from the waist band to the back of each leg-loop. These must be tightened so that they hold the leg-loop under each buttock. This is purely for comfort and not safety. If too loose, they allow the leg loop to hold around the hamstrings which is un-comfortable when sitting in the harness for long periods. Tie in and connection points:
Ordinary and alpine harnesses use different methods for connecting to rope and/or karabiners. It is important that the user understands these two different methods. Pictures are provided for clarity.
The ordinary design: When tying in on the rope for leading or seconding, always tie the rope through the leg-loop and waist band using a Figure 8 or Bow-line knot. See picture.
However for belaying or abseiling use the belay loop to connect into with a screw-gate karabiner.
Note: never use a karabiner though the rope tie in points of the waist and leg-loops and then belay or abseil from this as it is very dangerous!
The reason is that when a force is applied, it does not allow the karabiner to swivel around easily and exert the force down the axis of the karabiner. This can cause cross loading or 3-way loading the karabiner, something it was not designed to do. It also often causes the force to be applied across the weakest part of the karabiner, namely the gate. Trust the belay-loop when using a karabiner – that is what it is made for.
On the alpine harness the belay-loop is used for clipping karabiners onto for belaying and abseiling. Un-like the ordinary harness it is also used for tying in of the rope for leading or seconding with either a Figure 8 or Bowline knot.
Note: never use a karabiner though the belay-loop and through the waist band. For the same reasons as given above.
As mentioned earlier some harnesses have loops at the back of the waist band, which are used for dragging extra ropes in certain situations e.g. Multi day climbing, where a haul bag is dragged up the cliff. These loops are usually not rated for putting human life on.
Many long routes, and in particular on big mountains, are not particularly hard from a technical point of view. As an example the very spectacular Standard Route of Mponjwana Peak in the Drakensberg is 10 pitches long, but the hardest move is only about grade 15. What makes this peak a formidable climb is its length and complicated route finding. The speed at which a climbing party operates will determine whether they reach the top and get down again safely, not their individual technical climbing skills.
The gear
Here are some tips about how to climb really fast. Help save time firstly by not carrying heavy rucksacks. Keep emergency overnight gear and food to an absolute minimum. Remember that if you spend the night out you need to stay alive and not in the lap of luxury. Save time by having the whole party stop at the start of the rope work and sort everything out once and for all before the climb begins. Much time can be wasted by people calling a halt to adjust straps, tighten boot lasses and put on sun-cream on some wild and exposed stance. The rucksack must be packed with the food and foul weather gear in an accessible place, harnesses adjusted correctly before roping up. Place your snacks in the pockets of your clothing where it can be reached easily. To save time eat snacks while waiting at the stances while the leader is climbing.
Climbing calls
When the leader finishes a pitch and shouts “off belay”, immediately sort the stance out and generally get ready to climb. This is so that as soon as the “climb on” signal is given, the pitch can start to be seconded. Most mountain routes have long meandering pitches and there could also be a wind blowing. This can cause communication troubles between belayer and second. Small, in-expensive radios can easily be carried and can make a huge difference.
Sack-hauling
If at all possible, avoid sack hauling as this can cause much frustration. Try to get used to climbing and even leading with a climber’s rucksack on.
The pitches
On easy to moderate multi pitch routes, always try to alternate the leading to save time. (On hard routes that are burning you out, leading can be done in blocks because it allows the leader to rest while his second comes up. Alternating will mean seconding a hard pitch then going straight into leading another one).
When seconding a pitch, rack the gear you take out onto yourself as you will want it for the next lead. Arriving at the stance with a muddled-up bunch of gear that then takes a half hour to sort into a lead rack is far too time consuming. Also remember that, if in a party of 3, you might as well remove the gear from the third man’s rope as well, (unless they need it for protection in the case of a traverse). In parties of 3 or more, or when only one person is doing all the leading tie into the stances with either slings or a cordelette. This frees both ends of the ropes and makes the change-overs easier. It also makes more rope available to run the next pitch with.
Join pitches
Lastly: time can be wasted by having to scramble or walk between the end of one pitch and the start of the next. So instead of stopping your lead at the proper stance, carry on running the rope out to the actual start of the next pitch. This will mean one less situation where ropes have to be resorted. Many old classic routes were climbed with short pitches by today’s standards. Often these can be linked into a single pitch.
The Route Description
Make copies of the description and topos or photos of the route for all members of the party, so they can read them easily even if they are leading at the time that they need them.
