Full-Rope Vs Half-Ropes

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(Also see article written by Gavin Raubenheimer Climbing ropes and how to use them)

Key words

Single-rope: a dynamic rope designed to be used as a single strand for lead climbing. Also called a Full-rope.

Double-rope: a dynamic rope designed to be uses in pairs tied to the lead climber. Also called a Half-rope

Here we discuss the pros and cons of using Single-ropes or Full-ropes versus Doubles-ropes or Half-ropes also known as Double-rope technique.

Double-ropes are primarily used in Trad, (traditional) climbing and sometimes in multi-pitch sport climbs when ropes my need to be joined to enable climbers to abseil (rapple) longer distances. 

In Trad climbing there are really seven advantages to using Double-ropes.

1. Two ropes enable the leader to place protection left and right and then to clip alternative ropes into them and in so doing, keep the ropes running as straight as possible and so having minimal rope drag (friction). This is particularly useful on face climbs that meander a lot or when traversing around corners. 
2. Having two ropes does increase the safety factor if there is a possibility of ropes being cut on a sharp edge.
3. When leading and when protection has been placed on the same or similar level on alternative ropes, it means that in a leader fall, the impact is taken by two points of safety on two separate ropes which is a huge increase the safety factor.
4. Having two ropes on a climb means they can be joined together and used for longer abseils as opposed to having only one rope and being able to only abseil half the length of the rope.
5. Having two ropes means that a party of three can climb together. That is the lead climber ties into two strands and each second climbs on a single strand.
6. In a rescue situation or stuck rope during abseiling, a second rope can be very useful in a variety of situations.
7. There can be greater safety for the leader when close to the ground or above a ledge.  This is the common danger area for sport climbers when clipping the second bolt and for a Trad climber when clipping into the second Trad protection. Both situations are bad when the second piece is at arm’s length above and if a fall occurs when the rope is pulled out high above, but not yet clipped, the climber could hit the ground.  If two ropes are being used, then the belay keeps the rope taught (ish) on the lower running belay while giving out rope for the piece high above.