Winter climbing destinations in southern Africa

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Looking for an ice climbing destination in southern Africa? Here’s how were can help you:

• Guided winter-climbing (ice or snow gullies)
• Ice-climbing Courses
• Snow-climbing courses

The southern Drakensberg and northern Lesotho have many long ice-routes and snow gullies, ranging in grade from beginner routes to the extreme. Due to the dramatic decline in the ice routes of Mt. Kenya and Kilimanjaro, the southern African routes have become the only worthwhile winter climbing on the continent. They are also very accessible and affordable to visit.  These winter routes form every year and are usually climbable from mid June till mid August. Gavin Raubenheimer has done many of the first ascents and guidebook writing of the region and knows all the areas intimately.

All winter climbing equipment such as technical ice-tools, walking-axes, crampons and boots are either provided within the course fee, or can be hired for guided ascents.

Click here for ice climbing Routes, grading system and maps. 

Guided Ice-climbing or Snow-climbing

The region has 4 distinctive areas where winter climbing takes place. The easiest and least committing area is Sani Pass in the southern Drakensberg. There are 5 documented water-ice routes within 1 hour’s hike from the top of Sani Pass. Accommodation is available at Sani Top Lodge and to get up the pass requires a 4×4 vehicle, which can be arranged on request.

Then there is Bokong Nature Reserve in northern Lesotho: There are more than a dozen water-ice routes of all grades with an easy 30 minute hike-in. Accommodation is in rustic huts right at the climbing area and there is a good tar road all the way to the nature reserve.

Giant’s Castle in the central Drakensberg is home to South Africa’s best ice-climbing and is located in a remote setting, deep in the World Heritage Site. In order to climb at this venue requires a high degree of fitness, as it is a 10 hour hike-in to base camp, located at 3000m. There is also one easy snow gully route at Giant’s Castle, which does not require such a committing walk-in and gives a brilliant 2 day trip.

Lastly in the southern Drakensberg near Garden Castle, are several easy snow gully routes, which usually require no more than a pair of crampons and a walking axe – the perfect way to get acquainted with alpine snow climbing. These routes require one and a half days for guided ascents. A half day to drive to the trail head and then a few hours to walk to base camp. The next day the climb is completed and there is time to drive home. Peak High will advise you on what venue would be best suited to your ability and ambitions. Click here for the webpage with our course prices and for course dates see our Blog page.

Peak High will guide you on most of the existing water-ice routes or snow gullies. Contact Gavin on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za

For more info on ice climbing routes and grades in the Drakensberg, or contact me on: gavin@peakhigh.co.za to arrange a winter climbing trip.