Skip to content

peakhigh.co.za

Mountaineering and Rock Climbing in South Africa Blog

Archive

Category: Climbing

What a great weekend rock climbing at White Umfolozi.

White Umfolozi Batman. Gavin

White Umfolozi. Dingaans Manvr Haans leading

The most magical setting! Beautiful sunshine in the middle of winter, a river with sun baked rock on either side, but enough shade to hide in when it gets too hot! Numerous excellent trad and sport routes. We climbed and climbed and brewed endless cups of tea and climbed some more…

White Umfolozi  Last Tango. Gavin leading

Getting back to camp we could have a warm shower under the stars and then we spent the evenings around the fire! And slept on the deck – the most gorgeous view to wake up to!

The White Umfolozi deck!

Just last week I was complaining to Gavin that I never wake up with that absolutely awesome “Man, I climbed hard yesterday” feeling. What a pleasure to wake up this morning with my forearms still sore and even as I am typing, my fingers feeling like they worked hard.

It took Gavin ages to convince me to go and have a look at Pietermaritzburg’s new climbing wall – High Altitude run by Josh Pickering. I thought Gavin, Cesar and I would spend half an hour and then I’ve done my duty and could say: “Yes, I’ve been… “.

More than 2 hours later and I still could not get enough! Josh has gone to a lot of trouble to create lots of really nice and interesting routes. They are colour coded to create more routes on the same rope. It’s not all about top roping either, there are routes to lead on, you could traverse along the bottom and Josh has plans for a bouldering wall as well.

What a great vibe, there were 8 climbers in total, all various levels, but encouraging one another, swapping belays as people got tired, shouting abuse and generally just having fun!

I’ll definitely be back next week!!

Hannelie Morris

If you’re keen – give Josh a call on: 084 2505 694 or email him on: mjmpickering@yahoo.com

Gavin and I spent the afternoon working Faye’s amazing route called Look Out Below, that things gonna go. It is a sport route at Umgeni Valley graded at 25.

This was our 4th day working the route. Both being trad climbers, working a route does not come naturally to either of us. I think we both see it as training to get stronger…

After both Gavin and I sent the route on our first proper try of the day, Gavin’s words were perfect: “I’m so happy that’s done, now we can go and do some real climbing again.”

We ended the day with a game of hack..

Hannelie Morris

We had to go up Banneman’s Pass in the Giant’s Castle area of the Southern Drakensberg last weekend – James had left his sunglasses on top of the pass the weekend before. Tony was only willing to come along if we climbed something. After phoning Gavin Peckham it was determined that Banneman’s rib is a worthwhile climb.

We walked in on Saturday and slept the night in Sparerib cave. The morning dawned with the spectacular Drakensberg cloud carpet below us, creeping upwards. After 3 cups of tea we eventually decided to just go anyway, we can’t control the weather.

The start of the route was never found, but after we had both lead one pitch it seemed that we were on top of the third pitch, which meant that I got to lead the spectacular 5 meter hand-jam. I lay-backed up it! Anything not to jam and then did the very scary knife edge, which involved sitting down on  my bum and moving very slowly, one limb at a time, across the rib. I always find it amazing that on Berg a spectacular F2 hand-jam and a knife edge can leave one so happy to still be alive. What a spectacular pitch…

I was happy for Tony to lead the rest, since I had the best pitch! And by lunch time we were on top!

Hannelie Morris

For more info on guided climbing in the Drakensberg, visit our website on: http://www.peakhigh.co.za/

In late March Gavin had a short (very short) to the famous sea-cliffs in Pembroke on the Welsh south coast. He and Alan McEwan were scheduled to climb for 3 days on these fantastic cliffs.

The first day the weather was great! After Gavin lead two good routes, Alan took over the sharp-end. At about half way up “Highland Fling”, Alan took a short lead fall and injured his ankle. Gavin then lead though and Alan seconded. But it was the end of the trip! Alan went home to London and had some pins put in his leg and Gavin went off for a family holiday in England.

Gavin Raubenheimer

Contact Gavin on gavin@peakhigh.co.za