PEAK HIGH Mountaineering

The Mountaineering and Rock Climbing in South Africa Blog

Hiking Tents

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Tips on choosing a tent for mountain hiking

What to look for when selecting a mountain hiking tent

Tents come in a large variety of shapes, sizes and prices. When planning a trip, choose the best tent for the type of hiking that is intended. All tents commonly used for mountain walking have a few common features that are worth noting.

Hiking Tent Construction

Most mountain hiking tents today have a double wall construction, which comprises of an inner tent, usually suspended from the poles and then a flysheet pulled over the top. The inner layer is made of lightweight, breathable fabric while the outer is of fully waterproof material. The idea of this construction is so that the inner is a dry breathable area to live in, while the outer keeps the interior dry and wind-proof. The flysheet can build up condensation on the inside of the fabric but the inner sheet will help keep one from touching the wet outer layer.

The inner-sheet should be attached to a thick and very waterproof ground sheet. This ground sheet should extend about 10 cm vertically on all sides to prevent water getting in during very heavy rain periods.

The flysheet should on the other hand extend right to the ground, which helps to stop water splashing up and inside the inner tent. A flysheet that extends like this is also very important in stopping wind from getting under the tent and possibly causing the fabric to rip.

All good quality mountain tents have the flysheet extending down in this way on all sides of the structure. Beware of any tents where the flysheet is open to the wind on one end, which is often the case with cheap hiking tents.

The entrances of good hiking tents also have zip closures, which are in turn covered by a flap of fabric held down with Velcro or press-studs. The flysheet and ground-sheet seams should also be sealed with either tape or seam-sealer glue.

Hiking Tent Shapes

Dome / Geodesic type shapes are very popular today. They have the advantage of providing the greatest volume for a given area making them very comfortable and roomy. Most of them will also stand up without the aid of guy ropes, making them easy to set up on rocky or icy ground. The poles for these tents are either made of fibreglass or aluminium. The latter are stronger, lighter and are less likely to break especially in cold weather. Dome tents tend to be heavier than ridge tents.

A good example of this type of tent is made by E3 Gear in the form of the 2-person Element tent and the Echo one person tent also by E3 Gear. (RAM Mountaineering)

Ridge / A-frame shape tents tend to not be as ridged as dome models and the living space is not so roomy. They do not stand up without being pegged down which can be a problem on hard ground. They do have a distinct advantage over dome tents in that they are usually lighter and stand up to high winds better. Examples of these were the now old Backpacker Kestrel series, which is till being used by some people 25 years on.

Ridge Tent

Ridge Tent
Dome Tent

Dome Tent

Pitching your hiking tent

Try to find a flat area of ground or if this can’t be done try to put the side of the tent where your head will be to the upward slope. Also check for rocks or sharp grass ends that may push through the groundsheet. Also do not pitch it in a place where water will naturally drain through, such as a slight depression or gully.

The ground needs to be firm but not too hard that pegs do not go in easily. Try to position the door facing away from the prevailing wind and bad weather. Take all the guy-ropes and peg them as to their maximum length if possible.

If high wind is expected or possible take rocks and place them all around the edge of the flysheet to help keep it down and to prevent wind from getting underneath. If camping in snow, then soft snow can also be shoveled up around the edges to make a wind break.

Lastly do not pitch your tent on a flood plain or anywhere near a river, where a storm upstream could cause flooding

Trekking Poles

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Why use Trekking poles when hiking in the mountains?

Trekking poles have become very popular with hikers, hillwalkers and technical mountaineers. When used properly, they can aid in balance and overall walking efficiency.

How to use them:

Firstly, it is recommended that you use two poles and not just one to walk with. The reason for this is that if used singularly and especially while wearing a backpack, an imbalance in the shoulder muscles occur which can cause pain and cramping.

They therefore should be used as pairs and adjusted to the same height. When hiking on level ground, adjust the length of the poles so that when your upper arm is hanging straight down and your hand is on the handle, your forearm should be parallel with the ground.

When climbing up a steep slope, shorten the length so that the same rule applies, and lengthen them when descending a steep slope. When descending one can lengthen the pole, but do not exceed the max limit shown on the inside slider, or the strength of the pole will be compromised. For best use, at any angle, place your hands through the wrist straps and allow your arm to rest in them, while only lightly holding the handle-grip.

Some manufacturers supply rubber caps that fit over the bottom spike. These protect the spike when walking over rock and reduce erosion on paths.

There are two Trekking pole locking mechanism systems:

Expanding Cone Type

The more common type has an expanding cone, where when twisted the cone expands into the tube of the larger outer shaft. These work well, but are prone to corrosion and breakages. If you are in the field and a shaft section in broken, bent or the mechanism fails, the entire pole is useless.

“Flick-Lock” system

A better system is that used by Black Diamond called the “Flick-lock” system. On this system, a simple clamp is used on the outer, larger shaft of each section. It is not prone to malfunction, and it means that if a shaft is bent or broken in-field, the damaged section can be broken off and then re-inserted into the larger shaft and locked again – a huge advantage on longer trips in remote locations. Black Diamond can also supply any spare parts including new Flick-locks and bottom spikes and snow baskets.

Maintenance

After use pull the shafts out and clean the locking mechanism with soap and water. Then dry properly and oil any moving parts and replace the pieces together again.

In the case of twist lock systems: when in the completely closed position, do not twist and tighten the mechanisms, as it makes it difficult to release.

Equipment Use & Care

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Climbing Tips: care of climbing equipment

Try to avoid standing on any of the equipment, especially ropes, as grit gets trodden into the fibers.

Avoid dragging rope through dust or mud.

Use rope pads or edge rollers whenever a rope runs over a sharp edge.

Never use abseil or climbing ropes or any other equipment for any other use, other than what they have been designed for. eg. Never tow a car with the rope.

Do not leave nylon goods exposed to direct sunlight for longer than is necessary.

As a standard rule, do not allow one item of nylon gear to run over the same spot of another nylon item, as this can cause high friction and heat. Always use metal against nylon.

When abseiling and using more than one rope for any part of the operation try to use different coloured ropes for easy identification.

Never allow karabiners to be “cross-loaded” over the edge of rocks or other hard edges.

Never try to place too many ropes or slings into a karabiner, as this causes pressure on the wrong portion of the device.

Ropes, harnesses and slings should be washed when dirty. Wash is Nikwax Techwash in lukewarm water in a basin , rinse and dry in a shady area. Ropes can be placed in a cotton bag and washed in a washing machine on low heat and Techwash in the soap container of the machine. Spin dry and then hang the rope up in a shady but warm area.

Never get any oil/petrol chemicals on or near to climbing ropes, slings etc. All oil based chemicals will affect the strength of nylon safety items.

Instructing Abseil and Climbing beginners and group management

*Helmets must be worn at all times.

*A separate safety rope is usually used when asbeiling.

*The abseil / climb is supervised directly by the supervisor/Instructor

* Improvised chest harnesses should be used for small children or people with ill-defined hips.

*If dealing with small children, consider using a thinner abseil rope, as small people do not have enough weight to make the rope run through the abseil device.

*Heavy people can be abseiled on a doubled 11mm rope, which causes more friction for these heavy individuals.

* Have a demarcated “holding area” where clients wait before abseiling or climbing.

* Have them then proceed to the “take off area” at the actual abseil or climb.

*Brief them properly about what they will do and what is expected off them once they are finished.

*It is recommended that groups which are instructed or supervised should have a qualified MDT supervisor or instructor in-charge of safety and skill.