Now for some old style Trad climbing! The Magaliesberg is a vast area with many crags, but Tonquani and Cederberg are probably the best for their accessibility and variety of climbing. Base camp is usually the nature reserve of Mountain Sanctuary Park, which is between 30 minutes and 1 hours walk from the crags.
There are lots of big multi-pitch Trad climbs in the easy to moderate grades. In Cederberg Kloof, some of the classics are Cederberg Corner, which is 3 pitches of grade 11 and next to that is one of the best grade fifteens anywhere, called Golden Balls. In the same area there is also a stunning 4 pitch grade 16 called Red Falcon Crag.
In Tonquani Kloof there is perhaps the most famous route of all the area, called Hawks Eye, which involves a small “window” that has to be negotiated on the final pitch.
In the lower reaches of Tonquani is Red Column, which must be on every climbers to-do-list. It is 4 pitches of spectacular, yet easy climbing with lots of exposure.
The campsite is well equipped, good value for money and a great place to relax after a day on the rock.
For guiding and more information: gavin@peakhigh.co.za
www.peakhigh.co.za
