A belay is the term used for an anchor point. Belays should consist of at least three separate points attached to different parts of the mountain or crag. I.e. separate rock spikes in the rock or trees etc. The belays must meet at a single point near the cliff edge and either a rope or sling can be used for joining the belay points.
Belay Systems:
When a belay system is set up for an abseil, usually one of two basic systems are used or a combination of both.
- Whichever system is used always remember that it must have the following attributes:
- Each anchor point must be independent of the other.
- If one point or connecting rope had to fail, the other points must not be compromised or shock loaded.
- There must be even tension on each anchor.The systems
System 1
This system is sometimes called a spider’s web. It is very simple to set up and also to get the ropes pulling at even tension. Always start the system with a Figure ‘8” knot and end with the same. The Master Point is created with either a Figure “8” or Overhand knot on the bight.
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To create this start on the left with a Figure eight knot. Bring the single stand to where the master-point is to be located. Then run it back to the next anchor point and back to the master-point. Do this to each subsequent point, but end on a Figure eight knot on the right. Then take all the strands and make a single, large master-point with a over-hand knot.
System 2
The Cordellette system uses rope or auxiliary cord in a loop of about 8m, tied with a double overhand or Figure 8 knot. It is very simple to set up and gets similar tension in the system. To make this set up, take a loop of rope tied together with a double fisherman’s knot. Clip a single strand of rope through all 3 or 4 anchor points. Then pull the rope from between each point, equalise tension and tie off with a single big over hand knot.
Click on the link to view how to set a Cordellette