We present a short series, first published on the Peak High Facebook page. These are short lessons in some skills needed for multi-pitch rock climbing. They can be used for both trad and sport routes. Plaquette these are great! These devices, also called “reversos” can make multi-pitch climbing much easier, faster and safer, especially in ropes of 3 climbers. The device has two modes. The first is in normal mode for belaying or abseiling like any other tubular device. It is in the second mode or better called “guide-mode”, that they make the difference. In guide-mode the device auto-locks in the down direction. See diagram.
When in guide-mode a Leader can belay up one or two Seconds at the same time. The so called simul-climbing method is to save time, while still having both ropes safely belayed. Several types are available but I find the Black Diamond ATC Guide to be the best on the market.
Tip #1 – put the master point behind you on the stance for easy rope handling.
Tip #2- use guide mode on pitches when it is unlikely for the Second/s to fall off over an overhang and need to be lowered. (They are difficult to release under full weight.)
Tip #3- only simul climb the Seconds on clean, good rock. No loose rock.
Tip# 4- don’t simul climb the Seconds on traverse pitches. (A falling climber’s rope can easily cut the other Seconder’s rope).
Tip #5- if a Second needs to be hauled through a difficult move, the device acts as a capture progress system in a 3:1 haul. Very useful for professional guides.
For more information on courses such as the Mulit-pitch Supervisor Course, contact gavin@peakhigh.co.za
