This week we take a tour of a few of South Africa’s best climbing venues. These are all places where I guide clients on some of the best rock in southern Africa.
I used the following criteria for selection:
1) It must have flawless rock.
2) Aesthetically pleasing routes.
3) Lots of easy to moderate routes.
4) Easy access and hopefully good overnight accommodation.
So to kick-off, we head for Paarl Rock, about an hours drive from Cape Town. This is a world of friction climbing on smooth, grey granite. The crag consists of 3 enormous granite domes, situated above the town, by the same name. It’s a truly wonderful area located inside a nature reserve. Most climbs are only 5 to 10 minutes walk from the car park. There are also some outlying slabs below the main area, which give easy friction climbing for 7 pitches.
If you go there it is worth visiting for at least 2 or maybe even 3 days and you just have to do certain iconic routes. Sands of Time has to be an all time favourite of mine at this crag. It has 4 pitches of climbing between grade 16 and 18, including a hanging stance above the crux pitch. An absolutely wonderful outing. Then there is Little Dutch Boy. This is a harder route, but certainly second only to Sands…
If you are wanting something easier, there is Skywalk, located on the Cannon Fodder Wall. This is a very easy multi-pitch bolted climbing, and a good place to get a feel of friction climbing. Lastly, it is worth mentioning the seldom climbed Trad route called Weasel. At grade 14, it is a true adventure on friction and easy hand jamming. All in all the only thing this place lacks is a campsite nearby. Accommodation has to be found in Paarl town or back in Cape Town.
For guided climbing trips contact: gavin@peakhigh.co.za and ask for an information sheet.