Rope Types for Rock and Ice climbers

Climbing and abseil ropes are very complex items with very specific specifications. All proper climbing equipment, including ropes and other nylon and metal gear has its specifications lay down by the international mountaineering body (U.I.A.A). Use only equipment that carries the U.I.A.A. mark on them.   Products made or sold in Europe also carry a quality certification mark shown as an “EN” i.e. European Norm.

Modern ropes are nowadays known in the industry as kernmantle ropes. Kernmantle here refers to them having two distinct components, an inner “kern” or core and then an outer mantle.

The core is made up literally of thousands of very fine fibres, that run continuously from end to end and this core is where the strength of the rope lies. These fibres lie parallel to each other all the way along the length of the rope. The mantle on the other hand does not have a high tensile strength, as its main function is to protect the inner core and to hold the core in place. This aspect is worth noting in that even if the mantle has a few nicks and cuts visible from the outside, it does not necessarily mean that the strength of the rope has been compromised.

Mountaineering ropes are made in two distinct forms: (1) Dynamic ropes (2) Static ropes.

1) Dynamic rope is of a type that stretches and is made like this in order to absorb the shock of a falling climber. They are usually sold in 50 metre and 60 metre lengths. Unlike Static rope they are usually made with bright, multi-coloured mantles and may have the halfway point marked in some way.

Again Dynamic rope is divided into two different types: Full-rope and Half-rope.

Single or Full-rope is the term used to indicate that it has the full-required strength of a mountaineering rope, and this is shown at the end of the rope buy a figure 1. Full ropes can sustain 5 test falls of 80kgs (U.I.A.A. test) this is in compliance EN892/U.I.A.A. CE 0120. They are typically made in 10mm, 10.5mm and 11mm diameters. At either end of these ropes there is the figure 1 in a circle, showing that it is a Single or Full rope.

The Double or Half-ropes have about 2/3 the required strength of a Single rope and carry a figure ½ in a circle at either end. They must sustain 5 falls of 55kgs in the U.I.A.A. test. They comply with EN 892/U.I.A.A. and these ropes are usually made in 8.2mm – 9mm diameters.

This chart shows some specifications of dynamic Full-ropes made by a well-known manufacturer.

 One of the many U.I.A.A. specifications with Dynamic ropes is that they must be able to stretch to one and a half times their own length before they start to break. They are also made to be very supple and knotable. Breaking strength varies from about 2000kg for Half-ropes to 3000kg for Full-ropes.

2) Semi-static rope on the other hand has very little stretch (about 4- 6%). These ropes are mainly used to abseil with or for haulage systems such as in mountain rescue. They are made usually in 10.5mm or 11mm diameter. They are sold by the “running metre” unlike Dynamic lines that are sold in set lengths. They also are often made with mantles with only one or two colours, usually white and black. Semi-Static rope for abseiling and mountaineering conforms to the EN 1891/U.I.A.A. CE 0120.

Besides Semi-static ropes of these diameters, there are other thinner Semi-Static lines called accessory cords. These come in all thicknesses from 3mm to 8mm diameter and usually have bright mantles. They are used for items such as prussic loops and slings. Accessory cords have less strength than ropes, but all will safely take the weight of an average sized human.

It must be noted that semi-static ropes must never be used to belay persons with or in any situation where a person or object may fall a distance before being caught by the rope.

This chart shows uses and specifications for some accessory cords.

 Slings and other nylon items

Most of these have similar strengths and characteristics to static rope. Note that slings have a higher breaking strength than rope when used over sharp edges.

Slings are either made as a flat “tape” of nylon or are of a flat, yet tubular construction. Both types can be bought either by the running metre or already sown into a circle. If making up slings from a length of material they must be joined with a “Tape Knot” (also called a “water knot”). The sewn slings are joined by a very special stitching method and are stronger than the tape knot method of joining. Very short slings are often called “quick-draws”.